Apparently the éclair was not a popular or cool pâtisserie until recently. I have always loved éclairs so feel that this lack of love for the cream filled choux pastry is rather unfair. But it is true to say that pastry chef Christopher Adam of L'Éclair de Genie in Paris' Marais has reinvented the traditional éclair, turning it into a delicate, scientifically perfect treat, which he creates in all the colours and flavours of the rainbow.
Deciding whether to have salted caramel, crispy milk chocolate, coconut, popcorn, vanilla and pecan, or hazelnut and praline was tricky, and took rather more time than the person behind the counter would have liked.
Hazelnut and praline was my choice of the day. Maman and Papa claim their salted caramel one was better. Another trip to Paris will see a return visit to try another flavour, with the hope of one day getting through them all.
L'Éclair de Génie, 14 rue Pavée, 75004 Paris.
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