Caravan

I've eaten at Caravan many times before. Their brunch is a firm favourite.

In need of an early evening, bank holiday monday, pre-gig meal, somewhere between mum's train platform and the Barbican, we headed for Caravan at Kings Cross. B and I were early and so started with fresh mint tea. We're that cool. The cups here were served on top of the pots: Pimlico Fresh in reverse, but a less perfect fit. 

Maman arrived and we moved on to bellinis for the girls and a beer for B. Bye bye fresh mint tea. The bellinis were described as seasonal. They were peach. As the waiter told us, they must be in season somewhere. Nice try, but not an excuse. If it hadn't said seasonal, we wouldn't have batted an eyelid. 

Not wanting a huge plate of food each, we shared a few of the smaller dishes. The best way of getting to try as much as possible, which, with this fusion-y menu, filled with enticing ingredients and mixtures, is exactly what you want to do.

Because of my miso-based work, we started with seaweed bread and miso butter which was as gloriously umami-filled as you would expect. A far superior alternative to marmite. Mine and maman's favourite spicy cornbread with lime and butter was spicy and sweet. If you have one dish when you go, make it this one. Just cornbread and a drink and I'd have been quite happy.

What followed was a mixture of fabulous and flawed. Roasted cauliflower with harissa; carrots with beetroot and goats curd (which we decorated with the herbs maman had bought from the garden for B and me); lamb ribs in miso and ale on the fabulous side. Heirloom tomatoes (read: one average tomato), chickpeas (big but soggy) and greens (and an unwelcome addition of raw red onion), on the flawed. 

A finale of black coffee for maman and cookies and cream for B made up for the previous mistakes. Together, the bitter coffee and glass of chocolatey, creamy heaven would have made a great breakfast. If you've got as sweet a tooth as me. 

We'll certainly be back, the buzzing atmosphere, wonderfully designed industrial space, and fresh coffee, are too good to give up for the odd faulty dish.

Highlight: Cornbread

Lowlight: Tomatoes

Caravan, Granary Building, 1 Granary Square, London, N1C 4AA