Tivoli Snapshots, Take 2

Last year we spent a beautiful long weekend in Tivoli with M&D. This year, we had B's parents visiting. They wanted to see "the fall", we wanted to get out of NYC, and we all wanted to eat wonderful food and do some good hikes, so back up to Tivoli we went.

This time, we stayed in this slightly bonkers shipping container house just outside the town. But apart from that, we behaved quite similarly.

There were morning visits to our favorite bakery, a rainy day in Hudson, stopping at all the farm stands to stock up on all the squash and apples we could eat, hikes in the Catskills and Taconic State Park, warm baths as we hid from the rain, lots of sleep, drives to watch the sunset, an attempt to use the barbecue without freezing, and everyone falling in love all over again with this part of the world.

Oh and there were leaves. Lots and lots of red, orange, gold, copper, yellow, green, brown, and all the other colors I can't name, leaves. (I was pretty happy about it.)

If you're visiting this magical area of New York state any time soon, don't miss these places:

Tivoli

Tivoli General Store: for your basics and not-so-basics. And for the best sandwiches to take on a hike.

Tivoli Bread & Baking: for breakfast and endless supplies of lemon bars.

Germantown

Gaskins: A totally fantastic restaurant in the most idyllic town. Best for a cozy dinner and lots of red wine.

Otto's Market: For pre-hike breakfasts, sandwiches and bagels to take with you, and a bigger basics and not-so-basics selection than Tivoli's General Store.

Hudson

Flowerkraut: Plants + sauerkraut. A surprisingly great combo.
Moto: For coffee, and a motorbike on the side.
Olde Hudson: Yes, it's expensive, but if you need something else to cook, you'll be able to get it here. And be sure to pick up a bag of Augie's granola. It's the best.
Talbott & Arding: Maybe my favorite food shop in the world.

Red Hook

Mercato: We had a delicious dinner here after a less delicious train ride up to Rhinecliff on Friday night. It was buzzing and the pasta was amazing.

And don't miss the farm stands: stop at every one you pass. You can never have too many apples.

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A Day at Hunter Mountain

Living in New York isn't easy, but there are many benefits. One of them (for us ski-lovers): being able to escape for a day in the mountains. Last year, we didn't perfect the ski day trip, but this year, we think we've got it right.

Our tips:

1. Don't take the ski bus. It's a super early start and then you take a stupid route through Manhattan so it takes forever. By the time you get there the queues are terrible and you won't be skiing until late morning (last year we weren't skiing until after 11am having caught the bus at 6am). It will also take a painful amount of time to take home (over 4 hours, with a journey that went through Times Square). Instead, rent a car, or better yet, borrow a friend's (thanks G!).

2. Get up early. Yes, our Saturday morning alarm went at 5:15. But we made it from Brooklyn over the George Washington Bridge in 25 minutes. And we were on the slopes by 9am.

3. Bring your own lunch. Hunter Mountain isn't a culinary hotspot. And it isn't super cheap either.

4. Ski early to early. It only gets busier as the day goes on, and the snow gets worse too. Plus, after the 5am alarm, you'll be exhausted by 3pm.

5. Stop at Phoenicia Diner on your way home. It's 10 minutes out of your way and those pancakes are worth driving far more than 10 minutes for.

6. Order the pancakes at Phoenicia Diner. Plus whatever else you fancy. But don't forget the pancakes.

7. Get a good playlist ready for the drive home. It won't be as smooth as your journey out.

One more close-up of those pancakes. Just because.

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Table on Ten Snapshots

Yes, it has been several months since we visited Table on Ten, but better late than never. This was the most blissful weekend in my dream home, Table on Ten's studio up on the hill. We ate, ran, hiked, bathed, cooked, slept, read, shopped the farm stands, and talked. Surrounded by space, silence, light, trees, and rolling hills, we promised ourselves we'd return again soon. As soon as we possibly can.

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Tivoli Snapshots

A long weekend at the beautiful Barn in Tivoli with M&D. Evenings were spent lighting fires, cooking s'mores, and curled up with a book. Days were spent running or hiking through the vast hills and surrounding space. A trip to Hudson, a glimpse of Germantown, and a lot of time wandering the streets of tiny Tivoli, planning which house we should buy. (Tom, as you can see below, you were missed.)

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