Honey and
Ricotta
food, life, ramblings
Showing posts with label Shoreditch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shoreditch. Show all posts

Tuesday, 8 April 2014

On the Bab

It seems I can no longer hide my slightly obsessive personality. This time it's a Korean obsession.

My now less-new office is rather too conveniently close to the now less-new Old Street restaurant, On the Bab. Every visit, I am incapable of showing any sign of reserve always order too many things. But how can I stop such a trait, when everything I've tried has been delicious? There's never a problem of there being food left to waste, rather there is just a problem of me being uncomfortably full afterwards. Complete lack of self control my end -  my eyes are much bigger than my stomach.


Busy at lunch, busy in the evenings, this little restaurant is always buzzing. And there's many a good reason why. Soju cocktails stirred with lemon, honey, and tonic water, or a sojito for B were both sweetly perfect, if a little slow to arrive. Fried chicken came in an enormous portion, with Korean slaw on the side. Fluffy Hirata buns stuffed full with beef and sweetly spiced sauce. Huge portions of rice and vegetable fritters. Stir fried spicy pork with vegetables and cheese sounded bizarre but tasted perfect. All served in perhaps not very original enamelware, by waiters in marine-striped t-shirts. Of course brick walls and wooden chairs accompany this. This is Hoxton after all. 



I was too greedy to get any really great pictures. Apologies. The meat was fantastic, and a vegetarian might feel slightly left out. But there are options, and maybe it's just that my eyes are more drawn to fried chicken than they are to more vegetable fritters.



Highlight: Hirata buns. Obsessed.
Lowlight: Service. Far. Too. Slow.

Thursday, 5 December 2013

Burro e Salvia

Friday night. 7pm. Burro e Salvia. 52 Redchurch Street.

If you're short of time, or bored of my words already, please just listen to me say this: I love this place. Please go as soon as you possibly can. And take me as your date.


Having elbowed my way into several brief conversations with these lovely people on twitter and over email (I imagine they feel greatly harassed by mine and B's adoring attentions), we were greeted with a smile and a moment of putting face to tweet. Future pasta lessons, their eggs, their wonderful chickens, their site and their success were discussed over a zingy glass of Prosecco, which was accompanied by a generous portion of parmesan which had been aged for 24 months. As other customers arrived we left the gorgeous Italian owners to greet them, snuck off to admire their wonderful Christmas gift suggestions, and then wiggled our way over to the table. Our parmesan following swiftly behind us.


An A5 card, simply crafted with their illustrated yellow logo at the top listed the evening's menu. It was read through. Multiple times. With an Andrew Graham-Dixon-esque 'mmmm' of approval. The wine menu was glanced at and the wine pairing option was offered. For once this didn't cost hundreds of pounds (in fact it was a bargain at only 20) and so the wine list was exchanged for the lovely Daniel who talked us through each glass, answering our endless questions, before disappearing off, leaving us to enjoy the weird and wonderful world of wine.


I have to admit that I was slightly nervous that this meal may not be perfection, that it may taint my idolised vision of Burro e Salvia. So with each course came a tense intake of breath before it was placed down. A couple of courses (and glasses of wine) in, and I'd calmed down. There would be no disappointment.


Stupidly I didn't steal/kindly ask if I could take a copy of the menu, so precise details and Italian names for the amazing pasta will be conspicuously absent from this post. The meat filled plin were rich and dark, the tortellini perfect pockets of pleasure (and also reiterated the fact that most British people, and 'Italian' restaurants simply haven't digested the meaning of 'al dente'), and the ricotta quenelles with truffles and parmesan were... Well, the ricotta quenelles with truffles and parmesan... They, well... There are no words. I was in heaven. Ricotta heaven (which is obviously the best kind of heaven). A contrast to the gorgeous ricotta 'cook in oven' doused in oil and herbs that we tasted/lived on for a week in Sicily, this was light and smooth, whisked with the egg yolks to add depth, covered in parmesan for the salty kick, sprinkled with truffles for the subtle, sophisticated elegance. Maurice Goudeket was not wrong in stating: 'Truffles - anyone who does not declare himself ready to leave Paradise or Hell for such a treat is not worthy to be born again'. But I would add good ricotta to that phrase.



And when I thought I could eat no more we were presented with a spongey, airy panettone,  which wafted it's perfect Christmas scent across the room. If someone could invent a panettone perfume that would be great. Thanks. A generous portion of zabaione filled the little space left on the plate. And, of course, served with a sparkling glass of moscato. I defy anyone not to smile and snap a pic when that amount of Italian heaven is handed to them with a smile.


Highlight: ricotta quenelles with truffle
Lowlight: I'll come back to you if I can think of something

Saturday, 2 November 2013

Ronnie Saunders Diners Union

6:45 pm. Friday night. 5-7 Rivington Street. Diners Union. We had been promised 'a Halloween extravaganza of epic proportions'.

A marquee on Rivington Street, with antique, out-of-use buses filling some of the empty space, and a gazebo next to this enormous sign making the entrance. Thankfully, there was no subtlety or sense of hidden exclusivity about this pop-up: the fun was there for all to see and enjoy.


We survived the trip past the bouncers and into the marquee where waitresses dressed as dead cheerleaders wait to greet you. As one friend pointed out, what is this Halloween obsession with just putting 'dead' in front of anything and thereby making it scary? Since when was a dead cheerleader an acceptable and recognised Halloween outfit? Anyway, I didn't let that get to me.

£15 pound in cash paid. Plus £3.50 corkage. For this we received a tray with some foil on top and a plastic glass. It was clear this wasn't going to be quite the Michelin star-esque banquet we had pictured (and they had hinted to on their site). I didn't let that get to me.

We sat down at one of the long trestle tables, leaving adequate space between us and the other diners so that our friends running typically late could fit in. A dead cheerleader (who ended up haunting us all evening) came over in a matter of seconds and asked us to move up. We explained our situation, but she convinced us to snuggle up nevertheless. The fact that one fifth of the seats were taken and there wasn't a queue the whole way along Rivington Street to get in was muttered as she left, but not spoken aloud to her face. Lack of courage on our part. We'll grow up one day.



The others soon arrived and we queued up canteen-style to have our food placed on our trays. As we all met at college, we discussed the memories of queueing for lunch and dinner together everyday for 3 years that this experience brought back from the dead. We tried not to let the lack of service get to us. After all, for £15 what could we really have been expecting?



Eventually all '5 courses' filled my tray, along with some paper bags (the point of this take-away option became clear later) and we were allowed/ordered by a dead cheerleader to move along and go back to our allotted bench. Like good little school children, we obeyed.

The devilled fingers and chicken wings that were the veggie/meat starters were both delicious, and suitably fitted the Halloween theme. The mac 'n' cheese was cold. I do understand that without an oven it's hard to make things warm. But a brush with a blowtorch did seem like a token effort.

Things got better when we dug into the pulled pork, homemade brioche, pickles and slaw/mushroom, jalapeno and montgomery jack cheeseburger, homemade brioche, pickles slaw (although I think they may have forgotten the pickles on my veggie - maybe a blessing in disguise for many). The bun was bouncy and sweet, both fillings flavoursome and rich. We couldn't have asked for much more. The home fries, however, had morphed into a cold backed potato with a splodge of garlic. The garlic was delicious. The rest of the potato (free of crinkled, wrinkly delicious skin), underwhelming.

But the chocolate pumpkin brownie with sunflower seeds was sublime. Honestly the best brownie I've had in a while. Added to the never-ending 'to-bake' list.

We had devoured brownies, and we're just pouring a second glass of wine when the same dead cheerleader came over to tell us that we had to leave in ten minutes as our seats were needed. No sorry, no excuse me, no please, no subtle way of explaining the set-up. This time, we did let it get to us. There were still empty seats. There was still no queue along the whole street. And we were forced out on to the streets. I wouldn't normally have a problem with this, and, working in a restaurant myself, totally understand the need to turn tables as often as possible. But there is a certain way of going about it that this dead cheerleader had failed to master.

L did express her sentiments (taking on a much more grown-up role than the rest of us), to he who is in charge, on the way out. He explained it much more gentlemanly. If only he had replaced the multiple not-quite-dead-enough cheerleaders.

We headed to the Carpenter's arms on Cheshire Street, where we sought good drinks, good service, and a space where we weren't going to be asked to leave because there might be someone coming to take our seat in half an hour and they had the oh so tricky process of putting a foil sheet in the bin before they arrived.



So, a Friday night that was amazingly cheap, in a great setting and full of good ideas. But also held lots of disappointments. Can't help thinking that if it hadn't been for the dead cheerleaders, our view of the evening would have been much more positive.

Highlight: Pumpkin brownies
Lowlight: Service (as well as the lack of promised of pumpkin carving, zombie face painting and Thriller on repeat).
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